A New Years Eve in Laos一个新的年除夕，在老挝

A New Year's Eve in IV parts.又是新一年的前夕，在第四部分。

Part I:第一部分：

It was strange to feel like a traveller again, being herded from guest house to guest house and then finally an hour and a half later than planned, to the illegally parked bus destined for Vientiane, Laos.这是很奇怪的感觉就像一个旅客再次被驱赶，从招待所到宾馆，然后在最后一个半小时后，比原计划，向违例停泊巴士运往老挝首都万象。

Thailand is the land of contradictions as much as it is the land of smiles.泰国是土地的矛盾多，因为它是土地的笑容。 Even though I work for a government school, I do not have a work visa and so cannot work legally.即使我的工作，为政府的学校，我现在没有工作签证，所以不能合法工作。 The need for a visa run wasn't news to anyone.需要签证来说，是不是新闻给任何人。 Although the Thai New Year is in April they still celebrate the start of the Western New Year enthusiastically and drunkenly.虽然泰国新年，是在4月，他们仍庆祝开始的西方新的一年里，热情drunkenly 。 Many Thais take the opportunity to visit friends and family in their home provinces; subsequently the train to NongKhai was fully booked.许多泰国人借此机会参观的朋友和家人，在他们的家乡省份;后来火车去廊被订满。 The cost of a flight to Vientienne was prohibitive which left us with one option, a 14hr bus journey, the cost of which had been festively increased from 500 Baht to 700 Baht.成本航班vientienne是令人望而却步，这给我们留下了一个解决办法， 14hr车程，成本已增加节日欢乐气氛的，由500铢至700铢。

After an hour and a half wait at a seedy guest house down a dimly lit Soi off the Koasan Road, a panicked cry went out that our coach was ready, we were then hurriedly led through several Sois (side streets) to a double decker coach brightly adorned with colourful lights and chrome hubcaps.经过一个半小时的等待，在seedy招待所一个昏暗环境的SOI关闭koasan道，慌了神，哭了，原来我们的教练做了准备，我们便仓促率领经过几sois （横街） ，一双层巴士灿烂饰以色彩缤纷的灯光和铬hubcaps 。

The novelty of my first long bus trip created some excitement, but the novelty had worn off after half an hour.新奇的我的第一个长期的巴士之旅，带来了一些兴奋，但新颖，精致无比起飞后一个半小时。 After exhausting the fun that can be had adjusting my reclining chair and repositioning the air vent to avoid the icy cold blast, I reaslied there were another 13 and a half hours left.用尽乐趣，可以调整了，我躺在椅子和调整空气通风口，以避免冰冷的冷风，我reaslied有另外13一个半小时离去。 It was then that I discovered the toilet was already blocked, sanguine anticipation of this journey evaporated, I returned to my seat and complimented my bag of crisps with two immodium tablets.当时，我发现厕所已经堵了，乐观的预期，这一旅程蒸发了，我回到我的座位和complimented我一袋crisps两个immodium片。

It soon became clear after we left the grinding traffic of Bangkok that the passengers were not the only ones eager to arrive as quickly as possible.它很快就成了清楚后，我们离开了磨削交通曼谷表示，乘客不是唯一的渴望抵达尽快好起来。 I really quite enjoy the feeling of danger when travelling at speed, whether on a plane, motorbike or in a car.我真的很享受的感觉，危险的时候，在行驶的速度，无论是飞机，摩托车或汽车。 I can fondly remember a smile creeping across my face, as when a child my dad would drop the car down a gear and speed round the country lanes.我可以亲切地记得微笑地蠕动跨越我的脸，因为当一个孩子，我爸爸会下降，车内下来一个齿轮和高速轮国小巷。 But he always impressed upon me that driving quickly isn't the skillful part, it's the stopping in time that matters.但他总是留下深刻印象后，我说，驾驶很快，是不是善于部分，它的停车，在当时的事宜。 And so as our driver frequently veered from the outside lane, across three lanes and on to the hard shoulder to pass traffic, I feared, I seriously feared, for my life.所以作为我们的司机经常调头从外车道，跨越三个车道，并就向路肩通过交通，我怕，我怕认真，为我的生命。 Sitting on the top deck I had a clear view as the driver continued to accelerate despite heavy, slower traffic in front.坐在铁塔顶部，我有明确的看法，作为司机继续加速，尽管沉重，慢交通战线。 I lost count of the number of times I turned to Tanja and said "There's no way we can stop in time, this time", but once again the driver would swerve in front of the vehicle in the left hand lane, across another lane and onto the hard shoulder, the wheels kicking up dust as they struggled to maintain grip.我失去了算多少次，我求助于的Tanja并说： "没有这样我们才能及时煞停，这个时候" ，但再次司机将移前面的车辆在左手里，跨越另一车道，并上路肩，车轮激起的灰尘，因为他们竭力保持抓地力。 The laws of physics and central-fugal force were rewritten that night and I struggled to understand how the coach remained upright.物理定律和中央真菌队被改写，这天晚上，我挣扎，以了解如何教练依然一身正气。 We approached sweeping curves on the highway, but these were again no indicator to the driver that he should apply a little pressure to that middle pedal, known to us sane drivers as the brake.我们走近扫曲线在高速公路上，但这些都再没有指标给司机说，他应适用并没有太大压力，以中等踏板，以我们所知的理智司机刹车。 A deafening roar sounded from the tires, as exhausted, they gave way to the rims in an attempt to keep us upright. 1震耳欲聋的轰鸣声吹响，从轮胎，因为耗尽，他们给的方式向轮辋中，企图让我们直立。 Midnight approached and the nervous laughter dissipated, sleep became the only source of comfort.午夜接触与神经笑声消退，睡觉成了唯一来源的舒适度。 Spread out across two seats I tried to fall asleep, but the sudden sideways lurching and the crashing movement of the luggage as it was propelled from the hold, kept me from any meaningful rest, and my bladder was full.散布在全国两个座位，我曾尝试入睡，但突然侧身lurching和撞毁运动的行李，因为这是推进从船舱，不断把我从任何有意义的休息，我的膀胱满了。 Gingerly I made my way from my seat, down the stairs, to the toilet cubicle.小心翼翼我提出我的路，从我的座位，上落楼梯，厕所间。 The severe leaning of the coach had served one purpose, the toilet wasn't so blocked, unfortunately the contents had splashed over the rim and onto the floor.严重倾斜的教练曾是一个目的，厕所，就没有那么堵了，可惜内容曾溅到超过319地上。 Small waves of urine now broke from one side of the cubicle to the other in timely rhythm of the bus.小浪尿，现在打破了，从一边的房间向对方及时节奏的巴士。 The rest of the journey was spent taking alternative deep breaths, as we avoided another vehicle, and shallow breaths trying to avoid the foul stench of the urine recycled air.其余的行程是花了采取其他深呼吸，因为我们避免了另一辆车，和浅呼吸，尽量避免在罚球恶臭的尿液再循环的空气。

At 5.00am we made an unscheduled stop at NongKhai, down a quiet residential street, 10 minutes from the border crossing to Laos.截至上午05时，我们迈出了不定期停留在廊开，下来一个安静的住宅街， 10分钟到边境通道，以老挝。 Bleary-eyed and bone-weary but grateful to be alive, we hurriedly exited the bus, stretched our legs and breathed in deeply the fresh, clean, night air. bleary眼睛和骨骼厌世，但感谢活着，我们赶紧离开巴士，达到我们的腿和呼吸，在深深的新鲜，干净，夜间的空气。 The driver drained the toilet onto the road, climbed into his driver's compartment and went to sleep.司机排厕所的道路上，攀到他的司机的隔间及睡觉去了。

Unsure of how long this unscheduled stop would take, and unwilling for our lives to be in this driver's hands any longer, we decided to make our own way to the border.没有把握能持续多久，不定期停止将采取，并不愿意为我们的生活将在这个司机的手中，也不再遮遮掩掩，我们决定尽我们自己的方式向边界。 I climbed into the rear luggage compartment, using the rear wheel as a step and retrieved our bags, as well as those of a Laos couple, who had also decided to make an escape for the border. i攀升到车尾的行李舱，用后轮的一个步骤和检索我们的书包，以及作为一个老夫妇，他们也决定把逃生为边境。 The Tuk-Tuk dropped us off at Thai immigration and after exiting Thailand a mini-bus took us across the Friendship Bridge over the Mekong River to Laos immigration.本笃-笃下降，使我们在泰国的出入境和萧条后的泰国迷你巴士带我们跨越友谊大桥，湄公河老挝入境的问题。 As soon as we passed over the bridge, all the stress of the recent journey disappeared.当我们通过以上的桥梁，所有的压力，最近的征途上消失了。 It was about an hour until the office opened to process our visas, but we were in Laos, and time passes differently here, so we enjoyed a Laos coffee served in a plastic bag and a complimentary bag of some deep-fried somethings.这是大约一个小时，直到办公室开的过程中，我们签证的问题，但是我们在老挝，并通过时间不同，在这里，让我们获得了老挝咖啡，在一个塑料袋和一个互补袋的一些深层次的油炸somethings 。

From here on in, as can be expected when in Laos, the pace of our adventure slowed considerably.从这里开始，可以预料，当在老挝，要加快我们的探险大大减缓。 The air was cleaner, the traffic, when there was any, was slower, amiable, no longer did my life flash before my eyes, only smiles of passing people.空气洁净，交通，当有任何，要慢，和蔼可亲，不再做我的生命闪光之前，我的眼睛，只是微笑的人及格。

First stop was the Thai embassy to process another 2-month visa application; this went without a hitch this time.第一站是泰国的驻美大使馆的过程中另2个月的签证申请;这一过程持续了无故障时间。 After breakfast we made our way to our guesthouse, a traditional teak house, albeit a house that would have been home to a rather well to do Laos family.早餐后，我们提出的方法，我们的宾馆，一种传统的柚木房子，虽然房子已在家中比较好做的老挝家庭。 As we settled in to our room I was a little alarmed at the number of mosquitoes in our bathroom, but I soon realised that they didn't actually bite me.正如我们在解决我们的房间我有点震惊，在若干蚊子在我们的浴室，但我很快便意识到，他们实际上并没有咬我。 Even the mosquitoes are less aggressive in Laos.连蚊子都少侵略性，在老挝。


A New Year's Eve in IV Parts.又是新一年的前夕，在第四部分。 Part II第二部分
It was necessary to keep reminding ourselves that this was a capital city.因此有必要不断提醒自己，这是一个首都。 With a population of 500,000, and very low car ownership, the calm serene atmosphere belies that of a capital city.在一个人口达50万，和非常低的汽车所有权，平静安详的气氛中应验是个首都。 Only on a mission of suicide would I take to the streets of Bangkok on a bicycle; but the pace of traffic in Vientaine is that of 'what's the rush', and the flat landscape makes it an ideal city to explore by bicycle.只有一个任务自杀，我会走上街头的曼谷自行车，但步伐交通vientaine是'什么的繁忙' ，在该单位的景观，使它成为理想的城市，以探索骑自行车。 The day was then spent at a leisurely pace exploring this beautifully tranquil city.一天，当时花了悠闲探讨这个美丽宁静的城市。 Motorbikes far outnumber cars and I made myself chuckle by out-accelerating both at traffic lights.摩托车远远多于车，我这里就自己所出加速双方在交通灯。 Meandering along the streets, not all of which were sealed tarmac roads, we took in the sights of That Luang, Patuxai (Victory monument), beautiful old temples and made a few stops for Laos coffee and cakes.沿着蜿蜒的街道，并非所有的被密封的停机坪上的道路，我们采取了在风光栾认为， patuxai （胜利纪念碑） ，美丽的旧庙，并提出了几站，为老挝咖啡和蛋糕。
The French influence remains with many great restaurants, as well as the various examples of colonial architecture and after returning the bikes to the guest house, we waked back to the centre of Vientiane for dinner at one of the restaurants in the central square that surrounds the Nam Phu fountain.法国的影响力仍与许多伟大的餐厅，以及各种典型殖民地风格的建筑和回国后的自行车到招待所，我们waked回到中心万象吃饭，在其中一间食肆，在中心广场周围南富喷泉。
Walking back from dinner we stopped at a small shop to buy some water.散步回来吃饭，我们停在一个小商店买了一些水。 The shop consisted of a trolley stand on the pavement in front of a small house.店铺组成的手推车站上路面，在前面的小房子。 The stand was unattended, but looking past the trolley into the open house we could see the owner drinking with some friends in the front room.该站是无人值守，但看过去，手推车进入开放房子，我们可以看到主人饮酒与一些朋友在前面室。 "Cor sur nam song quart?", 'like to buy 2 bottles of water', we asked in Thai, which is fortunately fairly similar to Lao, and is understood in most parts of Laos. "肺心病sur南宋夸脱？ " ， '喜欢买2瓶水' ，我们问在泰国，这是值得庆幸的相当相似，老挝，和了解，在大部份老挝。 Little did we know that at 10.30pm, the evening was just about to start.没想到，我们知道，在晚间10时30分，今晚，是正要开始。

"Sabidee" They replied, "please come in, sit down, welcome, drink.” The owner of the shop welcomed us into his home, pulling up two plastic stools for us. His house was a small, sparsely furnished, single story hut, with wooden walls and a low corrugated roof and a dusty bare concrete floor. There was little furniture: a sideboard, a wooden crate that served as a table, and a number of cheap plastic stools; along one side of the room was a low wooden bed, where someone, despite the loud talking, the background noise of the television and the lack of a mattress, was managing to sleep. Another two glasses were brought from an adjoining room to the back of the room that we were now were sitting in, separated only by a thin ill-fitting curtain. The two glasses were filled with ice and Lao beer, and the owner introduced us to his two friends and his son. The sleeping man remained a stranger. A lull in the conversation soon followed but was broken by a suggestion that we go to a disco. "Yes, disco" they all chimed. "No money from you", one of the men excitedly said, quickly standing and removing his wallet from his back pocket. The wallet was empty except for a single $5 bill, which he proudly showed us, " I have $5!", a toothy grin on his face. And so it was decided that we would all go to a local disco. Although there were confused, pained looks on their faces when I explained that I didn't drink, the other glasses were emptied and we left the young son and the sleeping stranger in the house and made our way to two parked motorbikes on the road. With Tanja sandwiched between two of the Lao men and me riding in comfort with only one other on my bike we were off. " sabidee "他们回答说： "请进来，坐下来，欢迎，喝"的店主欢迎我们到他的家里，拉动了两个塑料凳子让我们，他的房子是一个小装置简陋，单一的故事小屋，用木板墙和一个低波纹屋顶和一个尘土飞扬的光秃秃的水泥地上有个小家具： sideboard ，一个木箱说，充当桌子，和一些廉价的塑料凳子;沿着一边的房间是一个低木床上，如果有人，尽管大声说话，背景噪音的影视及缺乏一个床垫，是管理睡觉。另外两个眼镜被带到由毗邻的房间后面的房间内，我们现在正坐在在后，南北离散只能由薄虐待装修帷幕。两杯都站满了冰和老挝啤酒，和主人介绍我们他的两个朋友和他的儿子。沉睡的男子仍是一个陌生的。停顿在交谈不久之后但打破了一项建议，就是我们去一间的士高， "是的，迪斯科" ，他们都唱和" ，没有钱，从你" ，其中一名男子兴奋地告诉记者，很快站立和消除他的钱包从他的背包中。钱包除了空单一个五元法案，其中他骄傲地向我们展示了， "我有5元！ " ，这是一个toothy笑容，在他的脸上，并因此决定，我们都将去一个地方迪斯科，虽然有困惑，痛苦的期待对他们的脸时，我解释说，我不喝酒外，其他眼镜被掏空，我们离开了年幼的儿子和陌生人睡在众议院，并提出我们的方法，以两个摩托车停放在道路上。同的Tanja满布两所老男人和我乘坐的舒适与只有在另一项对我的自行车，我们被赶走。

A short ride later we pulled up outside a brick building that wouldn't have won any prizes for construction.短短坐后，我们把车外的砖建筑，也不会赢得任何奖项建设。 About 50 motorbikes blocked the pavement and spilled onto the road in front of the building; this was the 'car' park, where we left the bikes and 'Phao', after speaking a few words to the man on the door, who was obviously surprised at the arrival of two farrang, led us inside.大约50辆摩托车堵住路面，并泻出的道路上，在大楼前，这是'车'公园，在那里我们留下自行车和' phao ' ，后讲几句话，该男子就走到门口，他显然让人吃惊的到来，两个farrang ，带领我们里面。 A large room with a concrete floor and exposed brick walls and a timber supported corrugated roof opened up in front of us.一个大房间内与混凝土楼板，暴露了砖墙和一个木材支持波纹屋顶打开了，在我们的面前。 Our host led us past 30 or so tables, crowded with drunk locals and bottles of Lao beer, to a vacant table.我们的东道主带领我们过去30多桌，挤满了喝醉了当地人和瓶老挝啤酒，以一个空表。 At the far end of the room a dance area was swarming with merry locals dancing to the band set up on a small stage.在迄今结束的房间一间舞蹈面积蜂拥与快乐当地人歌舞乐队成立了一个小舞台。 "For tonight you enjoy Laos, please" our host said, before his friend took our drink orders and disappeared into the crowd to the bar. "今晚你享受老挝，请"我们的东道国说，以前他的朋友了，我们喝的订单，并消失于人群中，以大律师资格。

The sight of farrang had pulled a few bemused stares from the locals and we were led around the disco to be introduced to several of Phao's friends and the head of Vientane police, who was also the owner of the disco.看见farrang已经退出数感到茫然stares由本地人，我们被带往附近迪斯科将引进几名phao的朋友和头部的vientane警察，他同时也是主人的迪斯科。 By the time we arrived back at our table our drinks were waiting for us on the table.经过一段时期，我们回到我们的表我们的饮品均在等待我们讨论之列。 Several glasses of Lao beer were poured out but my Fanta remained in its bottle.几个眼镜的老挝啤酒被泼掉的，但我的芬达仍然在其瓶。 "That's womens' drink", our host shouted, quite forcibly, as he saw me start to pour my drink. "这是个女人喝" ，我们的东道国叫喊着，有不少强迫，因为他看见我开始倾诉我的饮料。 "Beer Lao" he said banging a glass in front of me. "啤酒老子他说： "撞玻璃，在我前面。 "But I don't drink beer", I started to protest, a fact that had been true exactly a year to the day. "但我不要喝啤酒" ，我便开始抗议，这一事实已经如此整整一年，以一天。 I tried to overcome his confused bewildered look by pointing to the bottle of Fanta and then at myself.我试图克服他的困惑迷惘看看，指出了一瓶芬达，然后在自己了。 "No, for women" was his answer, knocking his glass of beer against the glass of beer that had been placed in front of me. "不，为妇女" ，是他的答案，敲他的玻璃啤酒对玻璃啤酒已放置在我前面。 I smiled and said thank you, I clinked his glass and put the glass to my lips, pretending to drink. i微笑着说：谢谢，我clinked他的玻璃，把玻璃给我的嘴唇，假装喝酒。 He then drank his glass in one and motioned to me to do the same.然后，他喝了他的玻璃在一个动议，我也这样做。 I looked around for Tanja for help, but she had long been led to the dance floor, where I could see she was struggling with the finer delicate movements of Lao dancing.我一看，为的Tanja帮忙，但她一直导致了舞池，在那里我可以看到她挣扎着微细的微妙变动的老挝舞蹈。 "Chok dee" I said, good luck, and downed my glass of beer, a cheer went up from our table as I did so, and my glass was immediately refilled. "竹德克斯说， "我的好运气，并击落了，我喝一杯啤酒，欢呼上升，从我们的桌上，作为我这样做，而我的玻璃被立即重新装填。

After much dancing, including a brief dance with the Head of Vientiane police's wife and many glasses of beer Lao, I needed the toilet.经过多番舞蹈，其中包括简短的舞蹈由县长万象警察的妻子和许多两杯啤酒，老挝，我需要上厕所。 One of our ever-hospitable hosts led both Tanja and I to a side alley to the toilet blocks.我们的一个不断好客的东道主带领的Tanja都和我一个侧的胡同，到厕所座。 Despite the queue Tanja was led to the front and went into one of the two cubicles.尽管排队的Tanja是导致前面，而走进其中一间间。 I was left waiting outside with one of our guests and a woman who I suspected earlier to be a prostitute.我是左外等候，其中一名客人，一女，我怀疑刚才是一个妓女。 I had been briefly introduced to this woman, and three of her friends, whilst dancing, I had suspected they might be ladies of the night, from their excessively made-up pinched faces and the way our host followed his introduction with 'You want, you need?'.我曾简要介绍了这个女子，和她的三名好友，而跳舞，我怀疑他们可能是女士们的夜晚，从他们过分作出跟进拼挤脸上和途径，我们的东道国其次是他的介绍，与'你想要做的，你需要的人呢？ ' 。 I was a little put out, to be honest, by their lack of interest in me earlier; well if a prostitute doesn't show you any interest then who will?我是一个很少出，说老实话，对他们不感兴趣，我刚才;好，如果一名妓女并不查看你任何利息那么谁来？ I needn't have worried.我不必担心。 Whilst waiting for the toilet she threw her arms around me and kissed me firmly on the cheek.在等待上厕所，她自己的怀里在我身边，亲吻了我，坚决克服面颊。 She then placed her hand very gently, and one might consider even politely, on my crotch.然后，她就把她的手很温柔，可以考虑，甚至要礼貌，对我的裆。 Surprised, I smiled in, I hope a non-committal type of way and removed her hand.诧异，我笑了，我希望能在不承担任何类型的方式，并取消她的手。 She then placed her hand back on my crotch in a message not understood type of way.然后，她放在她的手，回到我的裆在贺电中没有理解型的方式。 Again I removed her hand, thinking, well, jolly friendly of her at least, and again she placed her hand back on my crotch.我再次撤销她的手，有思想，好，绝非易事友好的，她至少，她再次放在她的手，回到我的裆。 With her hand on my crotch for the third time, our toilet chaperone turned round to see me removing her hand and trying to explain that I was with the girl in the toilet.与她的手，对我的裆，为第三次，我们的厕所伴侣转身看见我消除她的手，并试图解释说，我与女孩在厕所内。 Our chaperone seemed then to understand what was going on, and by grabbing my crotch himself explained that she wasn't to go around grabbing my crotch because I had a girlfriend.我们的伴侣似乎再明白什么了什么事，并抓住我的裆自己解释说，她是不会去走一走，抢走我的裆，因为我有一个女朋友。 Then to make everything even he placed my hand on her crotch.然后做出一切，甚至他把我的手对她的裆。 That settled it and just as I was removing my hand from the last crotch that I hoped would be felt that night, Tanja exited the toilet, not a moment too soon I thought, thinking how I would have explained my hand on a complete stranger's private parts.这解决了，这正如我是消除我的手，从最后裆，我希望会感受到那一夜，该退出的Tanja厕所，没有一刻得太早，我想，思考如何，我已解释过我的手放在一个完全陌生的私人部分。 'Really Tanja, it's not how it looks. '真正的Tanja ，这不是它如何期待。 I can explain'.我可以解释' 。
The lady soon realised her faux pas when she saw Tanja and was extremely apologetic.她很快意识到自己失误问责局首席助理局长时，她看到的Tanja和非常抱歉。 We returned to the main room, danced a little more, and drunk a lot more.我们回到主室，跳舞多一点，喝了很多。 At the end of the night we jumped back on the bikes and were taken to our guest house.在去年底的夜，我们跳回到自行车和被带到我们的招待所。


A New Year's Eve in IV Parts.又是新一年的前夕，在第四部分。 Part III第三部分
New year's eve arrived and after the exploits of the previous night I was surprised a headache didn't arrive too.新年前夕抵达后，攻击的前一天晚上，我很惊讶是一个令人头痛并没有抵达。 This would be the first of three new years that we'll be celebrating this year, the Thai and Chinese New Year are yet to follow.这将是第一次三个新的岁月，我们将庆祝这一年中，泰国和中国新的一年里还在后面。

The open balcony of our guest house was a breezy spot to just relax and read and that was how we spent the last day of 2005.露天阳台上的我们的招待所是一个凉风习习的现场，刚刚放宽，并宣读了，那就是如何用我们的最后一天， 2005年。

Later in the evening we walked back into the city centre, to the Khop Chai Deu near the Nam Phou fountain, where we would be welcoming in the New Year.后来在晚上，我们步行返回到市中心，向khop柴德国靠近南phou喷泉，在那里我们将迎接新的一年。 The $12 ticket included an all you can eat buffet, several bands and a free bar; back on the wagon, all a free bar meant to me was the possibility of developing diabetes from too many soft drinks, although not drinking would prove to be nearly impossible, again. 12美元的门票包括了所有你可以吃自助餐，一些乐队和一个自由的酒吧;回到车皮，全部免费酒吧的意思，我是有可能发展糖尿病从太多的汽水，虽然没有喝酒，将被证明是近不可能，也再一次。

Considering this is one of the top spots in the capital city it was eerily quiet for most of the night, that was until people had their fill of the free bar and started to lose their inhibitions.考虑到这是一个顶尖的地点在首都，它是惊人的平静，大部分的夜晚，那是到人，他们填写的自由酒吧，并开始失去了紧箍咒。 The looks from the attentive bar staff when I tried to order a non-alcoholic drink was a mixture of disbelief and mild disgust.外观从周到的酒吧员工当我尝试秩序不含酒精饮料的混合物不可置信和温和的反感。 Several times, having ordered a lemon juice I would receive a lemon juice and vodka.几次后，下令柠檬汁，我会收到一份柠檬汁及伏特加酒。 One barman refused to serve me a lemon juice, claiming they didn't have any, 'Vodka and lemon juice, only' he said.一个酒保拒绝服务，我一个柠檬汁，并声称他们没有任何'伏特加酒和柠檬汁，只有'他说。 'Ok', I replied, 'Vodka and lemon juice, without the vodka please'. '确定' ，我回答说， '伏特加酒和柠檬汁，没有伏特加请' 。 During the night I became convinced that the whole of Vientienne was conspiring against me, to tip me from the wagon.在夜间我成了深信，整个vientienne是密谋对我来说，给小费箱，从旅行车。 In addition to the bar staff either refusing to serve me soft drinks or serve me a soft drink with a generous helping of vodka, locals were now forcefully pouring drinks down my throat, frequent trips to the toilet resulted as I went to empty my mouth; a disgraceful waste of perfectly good alcohol some might say.除了该酒吧工作人员或者拒绝提供服务，我不含酒精饮料或服务，我一个汽水厂与慷慨帮助的伏特加，当地人现在有力地泼饮料我的喉咙里，频频出访，要上厕所，结果，因为我去了，我空口;可耻的浪费，绝对好喝酒，有些人便会说。

Approaching the hour of midnight the staff handed out sparklers which were all lit at different times according to the accuracy of the partygoers watches.在接近一小时的午夜职员交出烟火棒均点亮，在不同时间，根据精确的派对手表。 We took our queue from the band, which hurriedly finished a song to wish everyone a 'Sabidee Pee Mai'.我们采取了我们的队列，从波段，又急急忙忙完成一首歌，祝大家' sabidee工程师麦' 。

We left the party at about 2.00am and took a leisurely stroll back to the guest house in the cool night air.我们离开了党在大约上午02点，并悠闲地漫步，回到了招待所，在夜间凉爽的空气。 Several 'private' parties were still taking place in front of peoples homes.几个'私营'各方仍在发生着前面的人民的家园。 Groups of friends slouched round tables crowded with empty whisky and soda bottles.朋友小组slouched圆桌会议挤满了空洞的威士忌和苏打瓶。 Each party had an impressive sound system set up, blaring out popular Thai and Lao pop songs.每一方都令人印象深刻的音响系统成立后， blaring出受欢迎的泰国和老挝的流行歌曲。 As we passed, several parties invited us over to join them, 'Happy New Year', they cheered, 'Sabidee Pee mai' we replied, quickly followed by 'Mur le aw' - drunk already, so we could politely decline their offer to join them.正如我们通过后，几个当事方邀请我们过去加入他们， '新年快乐' ，他们欢呼起来， ' sabidee工程师麦' ，我们回答，紧接着'穆尔乐胡仙' -喝醉了，所以我们可以礼貌地下降，其提供的参加进来。


A New Year's Eve in IV Parts.又是新一年的前夕，在第四部分。 Part IV第四部分
We had been told that trains to Bangkok were fully booked until the 4th of January.我们被告知火车到曼谷被订满，直至1月4日。 But we decided to take our chances and make our way to Nong Khai train station in Thailand.但我们决定采取我们的机会，使我们的方式，以农凯火车站在泰国。 We considered, as this was New Years Day, some suffering souls may have only just found their way home and were in no fit state to travel.我们认为，由于这是新年之际，一些痛苦的心灵可能也才刚刚发现，他们在回家途中和在任何合适的国家旅行。

Although our counterfeit 'designer' rucksacks had only cost us 200 Baht, we still cursed that after 8 weeks they were starting to fall apart.虽然我们的冒牌'设计师'背囊只花费了我们200铢，但我们仍然认为，诅咒8周后，他们开始分解。 We bade our farewells to the owners of Thongbay guest house with promises that we would return.我们招我们告别时，以业主的通拜招待所与承诺，我们会回来。

The guesthouse was set back from the main road along a narrow, dusty, dirt track and it didn't take long until our feet were the same colour as the dirt track.宾馆的房子远离主要公路沿线狭窄，尘土飞扬，脏轨道，并没有太长时间，直到我们的脚也被同一颜色的，因为污垢的轨道。 The young neighborhood children, as they had done every time they saw us walking down the dirt track, came running up to us, 'Sabidee' they shouted, beaming smiles behind snot and dirt encrusted faces, their clothes, faces and hands the colour of the dirt track.年轻的居委会儿童，为他们做了，每次看到我们走过来走污物轨道，来到跑起来对我们来说， ' sabidee ' ，他们叫喊着，喜气洋洋的笑容背后， snot和污垢硬壳的面孔，她们的衣服，脸和手的颜色污物的轨道。

It was a short walk to the main tarmac road and it was along here that our friend Phao, who had taken us to our first Lao disco, lived.这是一个短期步行到主跑道道，它是沿着这里，我们的朋友phao ，他们采取了我们的第一个老挝迪斯科，生活。 We had passed his house last night on the way back from our new year's eve party and had wanted to call in to say goodbye, but the wooden sliding door to the front of his home had been drawn shut and a note which read 'Very drunk.我们已通过他的房子，昨晚就返回途中我们的新年除夕党和原本想打电话说再见，但木制滑门向前方的他的家已被提请关闭和一份说明，其中阅读'非常醉。 Sleepy now.沉睡了。 Gone to bed' was pinned to the door, so we would drop-by now to thank him for his kindness and true Lao hospitality.去床'是钉死的大门，因此，我们便辍学到现在，以感谢他的盛情，与真正的老挝款待。 We wouldn't make it that far…我们不会作出那么远的距离…

Along the street we could see several parties taking place.街道两旁，我们可以看到有几个缔约方的发生。 The first that we passed was in front of a shop that sold oil for the many motorbikes.第一，我们通过在前线的一家商店就售出了石油，为许多摩托车。 An impressive sound system had been set up and was distorting popular Lao and Thai pop songs.令人印象深刻的音响系统已经成立，并于扭曲民意老挝和泰国的流行歌曲。 An eclectic mix of tables and chairs crowded the pavement area in front of the shop and housed about 20 people, all singing and drinking Lao beer.背景非常复杂的桌，椅等拥挤的路面面积在前面的商店和住有约20人，所有唱歌，喝老挝啤酒。 There was Phao.有phao 。 He was pleased to see us and apologised for not being awake / sober when we had passed last night.他很高兴地看到，我们和道歉不是完全清醒/清醒的时候，我们已通过昨晚的。 We explained in a mixture of Lao and English, that we were heading back to Bangkok today and were on our way to the border.我们解释说，在混合老挝和英语，我们回到曼谷，今天就被我们到边境。 Although we think he understood, he disappeared and returned with two plastic stools for us.虽然我们认为他的理解，他消失了，回到两个塑料凳子我们。 Someone else handed us a glass each and someone else filled them up with ice and Lao beer.别人交给我们一个玻璃每别人填补起来，与冰和老挝啤酒。 'Happy new year. '新年快乐。 Enjoy Laos for today please' said Phao.享受老挝今天请'说phao 。 We had been officially welcomed to their New Year's Day party.我们已被正式欢迎他们的新的一年的国庆晚会。 Any hope that we could finish this one drink and continue on our way soon vanished.任何希望我们能够完成这项喝，并继续对我们的方法，很快消失了。 It is considered impolite to refuse the first drink and as it seems customary, you have to down it, in one.它被认为是不礼貌拒绝第一次喝酒，并因为它似乎是习惯，你要的下跌空间，在其中一个。 That empty glass was quickly refilled and we were introduced to the other people at the party, all of which seemed to be family of some sort.空载玻璃被迅速灌墨，我们被介绍给其他人，在党，所有这些似乎是家庭的某种。 We had once again found ourselves kidnapped by Lao hospitality and Lao beer.我们再次发现自己绑架老挝招待费和老挝啤酒。 Tanja made her way back to the guest house to check us both in for another night.的Tanja使她回到了招待所，检查，我们都在为另一个夜晚。 If the guesthouse owners were surprised to see us again, they were probably more confused that this non-drinking couple were in fact drunk again.如果该宾馆的业主们意外地看见我们，他们很可能是更为混乱，这非饮用水夫妇被事实上喝醉了。

Tanja rejoined me at the party and our glasses were filled with red wine; this too had to be downed in one.重出江湖的Tanja在我党和我国眼镜都站满了红酒，这也曾经有过被击落的。 When our friends were not encouraging us to down drinks, they would clink their glass against ours, a sign that we should drink.当我们的朋友，不是鼓励我们下来饮品，他们将clink玻璃与我们对抗，这意味着我们应当饮用。 I noticed that nobody took a sip, without clinking their glass against another person's glass.我发觉没有人了SIP的，如果没有clinking玻璃对另一人的玻璃。

I'm not sure if it was the beer or the 'winter' sun against my back, but my mind soon turned to food.我不知道如果这是啤酒或'冬天'孙反对我回来，但我的心很快转向食物。 Our ever hospitable host Phoa said 'Yes, food', and then refilled my glass.我们任何时候都热情好客的东道主phoa说： '是的，食物' ，然后再重新装填，我的玻璃。 Thankfully the drinking pace slowed as the sun started to cast long shadows.幸好喝的步伐放慢，因为太阳开始投下长影。 We were invited to dance along to a few Lao pop songs, and more of Phao's family arrived.我们被邀请舞蹈沿至数老挝的流行歌曲，和更多的phao的家人来到了。

I was sitting with my back to the road, so was only aware of the motorbike when it mounted the pavement.我坐我的回向道，所以才知道摩托车时，它走上路面。 The rider stopped only to throw a blue plastic carrier bag onto the pavement, it landed to the left of an open charcoal fire, that had been recently lit, along with the promise of food.骑车人停下仅丢一个蓝色塑料提包上路面，它降落到左侧的一个开放的木炭火，已被近来点燃，随着承诺的食物。 I didn't give much thought to the plastic bag until it started to thrash about.我没有去仔细研究，但塑料袋直到它开始华府虽约。 Startled, both Tanja and I jumped up.惊吓，双方的Tanja ，我就跳下了。 Whatever was in the bag was trying to get out.无论是在袋试图脱身。 Finally it achieved some success and a duck's head emerged from the bag, to be joined shortly after by its friend, noticing the surprised look on our faces, Phao tried to reassure us, 'Dinner!'最后，它取得了一些成功和野鸭子的头部出现了，从包里的时候，要加入后不久，其朋友，看到奇怪，就看我们的面孔， phao试图安抚我们， '吃饭！ This took home delivery to a whole new level.这上台宅配到了一个新层次。

The ducks sat contentedly for a while, with just their heads emerged from the bag, whilst everyone carried on singing, dancing, drinking and working up an appetite.鸭子坐在contentedly一时间，与刚刚出头涌现出袋，虽然每个人都进行了唱歌，跳舞，饮酒，工作了胃口。 I was secretly hoping they would take flight and escape, but their wings had probably been clipped and someone was yet to inform them that they were dinner.我暗中希望他们将采取飞行，并逃脱，但他们的翅膀，大概是撞上了，有人还没有向他们通报说，他们吃饭。

I had made the mistake of entertaining the small children at the party by pretending to be a monster; with my big nose and blue eyes, to them I probably didn't have to pretend all that much.我曾经说过，错误的娱乐性小的儿童在党假装是一个怪物;与我的大鼻子，蓝眼睛，对于他们来说我大概没有假装一切那么多。 I had grown bored of the monster game after five minutes, the children didn't tire so easily, so I was more than relieved when a tuk-tuk pulled up with four children already in the back and my tormentors climbed into the back and joined them, they cheerfully and noisily disappeared off down the road.我成长无聊的怪兽，游戏5分钟后，孩子们没有轮胎这么容易，所以我是多宽慰，当笃-笃拉高有四个子女已经在背部和我的折磨爬上背部和加入他们时，他们愉快地和喧哗消失小康下来道。 'Music school, get instruments' Phao told us. '的音乐学校，得到文书' phao告诉我们。 The language barrier would once again create more surprises and puzzles; the only way to understand what was about to happen, was to wait until it had happened and then more often than not, we still didn't fully understand.语言障碍，将再次创造更多惊喜与困惑;只有这样，才能明白什么是对发生的，只是等待，直到它发生，然后在很多时候，我们仍然没有充分认识。

Now that the children had left, everyone's thoughts returned to that of food, and the contents of the blue plastic carrier bag.现在孩子们离开了，每个人的想法回到当年的食物，而其内容的蓝色塑料提包。 One of the men, who had been introduced to us earlier only as Phoa's brother, returned from the room at the back of the house with a large knife.其中一名男子曾担任过多年向我们介绍较早前只作为phoa的哥哥，回来房间在后面的众议院一个大型刀。 He pulled one of the now protesting ducks from the bag, held its body in the nest of his armpit and called for somebody to help.他拿出一本现在抗议鸭子从包里的时候，举行了身在巢中他的腋下，并要求别人的帮助。 No one seemed too eager to help; Tanja and I were not even prepared to watch.没有人似乎过于急切地想要帮助;的Tanja和我都没有，甚至准备观赏。 Finally another man offered his help, whilst everyone else was happily distracted by watching Tanja and I standing as far away as we could, with our backs turned and our fingers in our ears.最后另一男子主动提出他的帮助，而其他人是快乐分心看的Tanja我站在远，我们可以与我们的背转向，我们的手指在我们的耳朵。 My timing was off, so I managed to turn round just as the duck's throat was slit and the blood drained and collected in a bowl.我的时机起飞，所以我设法转身正如鸭的喉咙被缝及血液排出，并收集在一个碗。

We knew then that although our appetites were great, we would only be able to eat the minimum amount of 'Duck Blood Soup' to remain polite in the eyes of our hosts.我们知道，然后说，虽然我们的胃口是巨大的，我们只能够吃饭的最低金额'鸭血汤' ，以保持有礼貌的眼中，我们的东道主。 We feigned some reason to return to the guest house where we ate something that hadn't been so recently alive.我们假装某种原因回到了招待所，我们吃的东西已经不那么最近活着。 By the time we returned to the party the plastic bag was empty, and all that remained of the two ducks were a few loose feathers that the wind was playing with on the dusty floor, and a large pot full pot boiling over the open charcoal fire.经过一段时期我们回到承认党的纲领和塑料袋是空的，这都是余下的两只鸭被几个松散的羽毛说，风大玩对灰尘的地板上，并有大量盆栽充分一锅煮沸过公开炭火。

As the cooking pot continued to boil over the fire and other ingredients were chopped and added, the children returned.由于烹饪锅继续煮沸过消防及其他配料被人用刀袭击，并补充说，孩子们回来了。 The tuk-tuk came to a stop with the children all singing and holding a piece of a drum kit.本笃-笃一度处于停滞状态，与孩子们所有的演唱和控股的一块鼓包。 The stand in front of the building holding the containers of oil was dismantled and taken inside.立场，在大楼前举行了集装箱的石油被拆除，并采取内。 I helped unload and assemble the drum kit.我帮和卸载组装鼓包。 Tanja unhelpfully told everyone that I played the drums; 13 years ago that may have been true.帮倒忙的Tanja告诉大家，我打了鼓， 13年前，可能已被事实。 A few of the men took turns playing the drums along to the pop music that had been playing continuously all day, whilst bowls of soup were handed out.几个男人轮番打锣鼓一直以流行音乐已经连续玩一整天，虽然碗汤被移交出来。 Thankfully food is served in a communal fashion, with everyone helping themselves, rather than each person having a bowl each.值得欣慰的食品是在一个公用的时装，大家帮助自己，而不是每个人有每个碗。 Thankfully then, the bowl of soup in front of me, with a duck's claw partially submerged, wasn't mine alone.幸好那时，一碗汤在我面前，以鸭爪部分淹没，是没有地雷。 Dinner was a slow affair, and if they were surprised at how quickly I became 'Imp', full, they didn't show it.晚餐是一个缓慢的内政，如果他们感到惊讶的是如何尽快我成了'进出口' ，全面，但它们并没有证明这一点。

The sun was setting now and the drinking pace was slowing.太阳定，现在和饮用水的步伐正在放慢。 Activity was limited to a few people riding off on motorbikes and returning with amplifiers, microphones and guitars.活动仅限于极少数人骑过摩托车，就回到与放大器，麦克风和吉他。 Once all the equipment had been assembled and without a ceremonious sound-check, the band started, and they were excellent, that is until the guy with the funny dance moves and the monster like eyes and nose was persuaded to play, then the evening sobered up a little, polite nods and smiles descended all around.当所有的设备已经完成集结，没有隆重的健全检查，乐队开始了，而他们的优秀，即至家伙与搞笑舞蹈动作和怪物一样，眼睛及鼻子被劝服发挥，然后晚上清醒一个太少，礼貌点头和微笑的后裔遍布。

After buying some beer, much against their protestations, we made our excuses for the need of a long walk in the cool early night air, and bade everyone a happy new year and thanked them all for their kindness and generosity and a promise that we would return to Laos and its beautiful people.之后买了一些啤酒，更对他们的抗议，我们提出我们的借口，为需要的是一个长期走在凉爽的早期夜间空气，并招请大家新年快乐，并感谢他们为所有他们的善良和慷慨承诺，我们会返回老挝和其美丽的人。 We made a promise to ourselves that tomorrow we really did have to leave for Bangkok.我们作出承诺，对自己说，明天我们真的要离开曼谷。